Skill: fitting safety edges to gates
Learning Objective
Learn how to correclty fit safety edges ensuring functionality and long-term durability.
1. Overview
Safety edges are essential for detecting contact during gate movement. Proper installation is critical for both safety and long-term reliability. This includes precise cutting, clean mounting, sealed connections, and protective routing of cables.
2. Tools & Materials Required
- Safety edge (supplied with proprietary crimp kit)
- Cordless drill/driver
- Countersink bit
- CSK (countersunk) stainless steel screws
- Tape measure
- Marker / pencil
- Heat gun
- Soldering iron (for enclosed joints)
- Heat-shrink tubing
- Cable sheathing or flexible conduit
- Router (if recessing cable in gate leaf)
- Door loop (for hinged leaf)
- Printed labels (e.g. “Join Inside”)
- PPE: Safety glasses, gloves, ear protection
- Optional: Cable protection tape (for welding areas)
3. Pre-installation Steps
- Read and follow manufacturer’s instructions for cutting the safety edge to length.
- Identify where the factory-made crimped end will be positioned — this must go at the bottom of the edge.
- Confirm where the cable will exit and how it will route — internally via groove, externally via conduit, or through a door loop.
- Ensure mounting location is free from protrusions (e.g., bolts, screws) that could falsely activate the edge.
- Mark fixing points and cable routing clearly.
4. Installation Procedure
A. Cut & Prepare the Safety Edge
- Cut to length using instructions provided by the manufacturer (typically precise to the mm).
- Retain the factory-made crimped end at the bottom of the installation.
- Nip the corners off the bottom rubber cap to allow water drainage.
- Slide a short ring of cable sheathing onto the bottom section of the cable to raise the crimped connection above any standing water that may collect in the post or frame.
B. Mount the Edge
- Countersink all holes in the aluminium mounting backplate.
- Fix using countersunk stainless screws so no screw head protrudes — protrusions can trigger false activations.
- Ensure edge is mounted straight and in the correct orientation.
- Position carefully so it is not activated by nearby gate features (e.g., hinges, bolts, stops, decorative elements).
C. Cable Routing
- Route cable through groove (routered), conduit, or door loop as required.
- If using a door loop, ensure its path is not vulnerable to being crushed or pinched by the gate in motion.
- If welding (e.g., gate shoes), protect cables from heat and sparks — use heat-resistant covers or ensure routing is complete afterward.
D. Electrical Connections
- Use the manufacturer’s supplied crimp system — do not substitute.
- Ensure crimps are dry and positioned above water level (using sheathing as spacer if required).
- If joining inside posts or enclosures:
- Solder and heat-shrink all connections.
- Label the area clearly with a “JOIN INSIDE” printed sticker for future servicing.
- Solder and heat-shrink all connections.
- Never leave any exposed copper or open joins.
5. Best Practices
- Always use factory crimped end at the bottom of the edge.
- Countersink carefully — protruding screws lead to false activations.
- Use the supplied crimp kit only — don’t mix crimp types or miss cripms off.
- Avoid routing near areas that may collect water or get damaged during future works.
- Make internal joins clearly identifiable for future engineers.
- Test compression function before finalising cable routing.
6. Common Mistakes to Avoid
Crimping incorrectly or with the wrong tools.
Not using the factory end at the bottom — can lead to water ingress at a weak point.
Skipping the countersink step — results in edges being falsely triggered.
Failing to sheath or elevate the crimped joint — allows water tracking into connection.
Not notching the rubber cap — causes water to pool.
Running cables through areas later affected by welding.
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